Step One:
The miniature is cleaned, assembled, and primed black. In the following steps each coat of paint must be applied so that it is opaque, i.e., until you can no longer see the previous color showing through. This is one of the biggest problems new painters have, they move onto the next color before applying a solid coat of the current color and the final results look dirty, especially when painting light colors like white and yellow. All layers should be watered down thin enough (watered down, not watery) so that your coats don’t build up and obscure the detail (like what happened to Battle-Brother Melted Crayon from 3rd Squad).
Step Two:
PollyS Venetian Dull Red was used in this step. All the skin on the face was painted with a dark reddish color. This color will be seen in the scar when complete. Leave a thin black edge next to anything that borders the skin (the plates and wires on his head). This is done so you don’t have to come back and blackline later. Blacklining makes the details on the model stand out at game play distances (two or three feet away).
Step Three:
A custom mixed color was used in this step (RP Flesh mixed with a red brown color). All the skin on the face except for the inside of the scar was repainted with the new color. This is the base coat color for the face.
Alternatively this skin tone could have been Step Two, with Step Three being “paint the scar”, but that is slightly more difficult than painting up to the edge of the scar with the lighter color.
Step Four:
Ral Partha Flesh was used in this step. Paint the top of head, outside of ear, cheek bones, eyebrow, upper & lower eye lid, dots of paint at the rear of the eyes making crows feet, lips, forehead wrinkles, chin (optionally leaving the cleft dark), cheeks down to and including the jawline leaving basecoat color underneath the cheekbone, tip of the nose up halfway, bridge of the nose down halfway leaving a space of the base coat in the middle of the nose and a space of the base coat between the eyebrows and the bridge of the nose, nostrils leaving the base coat between the nostrils and the tip of the nose.
To make the model look younger omit the dark lines in areas with the crows feet, the forehead wrinkles, and the middle of the nose.
Step Five:
Magic Wand Dragon Colour White Flesh was used in this step (out of production). Dot or fineline the following locations: top of ear, earlobe, crowsfeet, very top of cheek bone, eyebrow, bridge of nose, tip of nose, nostrils, edge of top of lip leaving a gap directly under nose, bottom lip, jawline, both sides of chin, and random lines on the top of the head (painters touch).
Step Six:
Vallejo Model Color Ivory (70918) was used in this step. Eyes are two dots in the corner of the eyes, leaving black all the way around. Teeth are merely a line inside the mouth. The difficulty in this step lies in how much detail there has been sculpted into the model, the smaller the eye the greater the difficulty in positioning the ivory dots.